Bye Bye Bodhi: Why the movies always get surfing wrong-and John From Cincinnati gets it right.

June 8, 2007, By Thad Ziolkowski, TheSlate.com

“There are three sorts of surf films: the hard-core variety, made for and by surfers, which consists, like pornography, mainly of high-performance action sequences and a music soundtrack (Back in Town, 2004); popularizing documentaries, which mix high-performance action sequences with explanatory narrative and interviews (Step Into Liquid, 2004); and Hollywood narratives, with their penchant for groan-inducing asseverations about surfing’s mystical dimension and cheesy climactic scenes in big waves (Blue Crush, 2002)…” [more]